Does Preheating Candle Jars Improve Glass Adhesion?
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A warm jar costs nothing per candle and does more for glass adhesion than any additive sold to fix it.
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Candle Troubleshooting · Glass Adhesion
Yes — and it is the cheapest improvement available to a container candle maker. It adds nothing to your cost per candle, it needs no additive, and on a cold-weather or air-conditioned pour it changes the result more than anything else you can do in the same ten minutes. Here is the mechanism, four ways to warm a jar, how to sequence a batch of fifty, and the two-jar test that settles it in your own workshop.
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Quick answers — read this first
Does preheating candle jars improve glass adhesion? Yes. Wax poured into cold glass chills at the wall in under a second and sets before it has flowed into the surface. A warm jar keeps that first film liquid long enough to wet the glass, and lets the boundary set slowly enough to stay in contact. It is the single cheapest adhesion improvement there is.How warm should the jar be? Warm to the touch, not hot. You should be able to hold it flat against your palm indefinitely. The goal is to remove the temperature shock, not to keep the wax molten at the wall.
Is there an official CSI jar temperature? No. CSI publishes no jar-temperature figure for any container in the range, and any single number you find online is somebody else's workshop, not a specification. You have to establish your own — the two-jar test below is how.
Will it fix wet spots for good? It reduces them, often dramatically, but it is one lever of several. The full prevention list is in how to prevent wet spots in container candles.
The short answer
Yes, and it is free: warming the jar removes the thermal shock that makes the first film of wax set before it can wet the glass. No additive in the CSI catalogue does more for adhesion than this, and this costs nothing per unit.
Target: warm to the touch, not hot. Comfortable to hold. If you cannot keep your palm on it, it is too hot — an over-warmed jar sets too slowly at the wall and trades an adhesion fault for a frosting or soft-top fault.
Four methods: a low oven (most even, best for volume), a hot air gun at ₹531 (fastest, least even), a hot water bath and thorough dry (cheapest, riskiest for moisture), a warming plate (warms the base, leaves the rim cold). All four can crack glass if you rush the rate of change.
In this guide
Same wax, same pour, two jar temperatures. Adhesion is a wetting problem, not a sticking problem: the wax has to stay liquid at the wall long enough to flow into the glass, and then set while it is still in contact. Cold glass takes that second away. A warm jar gives it back. Neither jar escapes shrinkage — soy contracts either way — the difference is whether the contact survives it.
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Straight answer
Does preheating candle jars improve glass adhesion?
Yes, reliably, and it is the cheapest improvement available to a container candle maker — it costs nothing per unit and needs no additive. The mechanism is straightforward. Glass is a heat sink. Wax poured into a cold jar loses heat at the wall instantly, and the first film of it sets before it has had time to flow into the glass surface. It ends up resting against the glass rather than bonded to it. Then the candle shrinks as it crystallises, as soy always does, and there is nothing holding that film in place — so it lifts, and you see it as a cloudy patch, a wet spot, or a whole face of the candle pulling away from the glass. A warm jar removes the shock. The wax at the wall stays fluid long enough to wet the surface, the boundary cools at roughly the same rate as the core, and the wax sets in contact rather than beside it. Warm to the touch is enough; hot is worse than cold. Do it with an oven, a hot air gun at ₹531, or hot water and a thorough dry. Then run the two-jar test and stop taking anyone's word for it, including ours.
One line: warm the jar until it is comfortable to hold, pour into it, and let it cool slowly — that removes the chilled skin that later lifts off the glass, and it costs nothing.
You do not need to buy anything to preheat a jar. If you want the fast method anyway, the Hot Air Gun is ₹531 and doubles as your tool for surface-passing tops and lifting bubbles. A Pen Thermometer at ₹354 is the more useful purchase, because it turns "warm enough" into a number you can repeat.
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What happens at the glass wall in the first second
Adhesion is not a stickiness problem. It is a wetting problem, and wetting takes time that cold glass will not give you.
Glass is a heat sink. A 150 g jar has many times the thermal mass of the millimetre of wax that first touches its wall, so that millimetre does not cool gradually — it dumps its heat into the glass and drops below its congealing point at once.
That matters because molten wax does not bond to glass by sticking to it. It bonds by flowing into it. Glass that looks smooth is not smooth at the scale that matters, and a liquid needs a brief window in which it is fluid enough to run into that texture and displace the air in it. Cold glass closes that window. What sets against a cold jar is a skin that has taken the shape of the glass without ever wetting it.
Nothing looks wrong at that point, or often at four hours either. The failure arrives later, because soy contracts as it crystallises and keeps contracting for days. Where the wax is genuinely keyed into the glass, that contraction is resisted at the wall. Where there is only a skin resting against it, nothing resists: the skin travels inward with the bulk and leaves an air gap. Light refracts off that gap and you see a pale cloudy patch — a wet spot.
Why the fault looks seasonal. A jar standing in an air-conditioned workshop at 20 °C, or on a Delhi bench in January, is a far harsher heat sink than the same jar in Chennai in April. Same wax, same wick, same pour temperature, different result — and makers conclude the wax batch changed. It did not. The jar did. Jars stored on a stone floor sit several degrees below jars on a wooden shelf in the same room.
Two things follow. Preheating does not reduce shrinkage — soy contracts the same either way; you are changing whether the bond survives it. And jar temperature is one lever among several: pour rate, pour temperature, cooling rate and the wax all matter. Why does my candle have poor glass adhesion is the general diagnostic, how to prevent wet spots in container candles the prevention checklist. This page owns jar temperature and does not repeat them.
The wax has to be a container wax first
No amount of preheating rescues a wax never formulated to bond to a vessel. Luxury Soy Wax CSI 464 at ₹260 per 500 g and Luxury Soy Wax Chunks at ₹299 per 500 g are container waxes. Soy Pillar Wax at ₹300 per 500 g shrinks and releases from a mould — a virtue in a pillar, a defect in a jar. Unsure what you have? How to verify wax quality before you buy covers the checks.How warm is warm enough
The target is warm to the touch, not hot. Press the flat of your palm against the jar and hold it. It should feel distinctly warmer than the room and you should be able to keep your hand there indefinitely — roughly a mug of tea twenty minutes after pouring. If you have to let go, it is too hot.
Understanding the goal keeps you from overshooting. You are removing the shock, not keeping the wax molten. The jar only has to stop being a heat sink violent enough to freeze the boundary film in under a second. It need not approach the temperature of the wax, and should not: a jar hot enough to hold the wall molten for minutes crystallises that boundary far more slowly than the core, grows larger crystals at the glass, and trades a wet spot for frosting and a soft top. Overshooting is the commonest mistake once a maker is convinced preheating works.
CSI publishes no jar-temperature figure, and this page is not going to invent one. There is no stated preheat temperature for any container in the CSI range. Every specific number circulating in maker groups is somebody's workshop finding, produced with their wax, their ambient temperature, their glass and their pour speed. Some are good numbers — for their workshop. The figure that matters is yours, and there is one honest way to get it: warm a jar, pour, look at day 7, adjust. That is what the two-jar test is for.
To make your figure repeatable you have to record it, which means measuring it. A Pen Thermometer at ₹354 read against the outside wall, halfway up, gives you something to write down. It need not be accurate, only consistent, so that "the jar read X and the candle came out clean" is a sentence you can act on next month. It is already on your bench for wax, so using it on the jar costs nothing.
One more point: even matters more than warm. A uniformly slightly warm jar beats one with a hot patch and a cold base, because a gradient in the glass produces a matching gradient in how fast the wax sets against it. That criterion separates the four methods below.
Do not warm the lids
Lids stay out of the oven — including those on the Clear Glass Jar with Golden Lid at ₹944 per 10 and the Black Glass Jar with Black Lid at ₹1,070 per 10. The lid never touches wax, and coatings, gaskets and printed finishes are the least heat-tolerant parts of a jar system.Four ways to warm a jar, compared
Four methods are in common use. They differ mainly on evenness and on how much attention they take, and every one can crack glass if rushed. CSI live pricing, September 2026.
Method comparison · empty jars, before pouring
Time, evenness, cost and the failure mode of each
| Method | Time per batch | Evenness | Cost | Main risk |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Low oven | 15–25 min per tray, unattended | Best — base, wall and rim rise together | ₹0 if you own one | Overshoot on a wide thermostat swing; hot glass handling; cracking if cold jars enter a hot cavity |
| Hot air gun | 20–40 sec a jar, hands-on. Does not scale | Worst — heats the spot you point at | ₹531 once | Local overheating and cracking on thin or decorated glass; leaves the base cold |
| Hot water bath, then dry | 5 min to warm, as long again to dry | Good on the wall, poor above the waterline | ₹0 | Trapped moisture sealed under the wax — bloom, bubbles, a milky base |
| Warming plate on low | Continuous; jars sit on it as you work | Poor — warm base, cold rim | Varies; CSI does not sell one | The worst gradient of the four; faults migrate to the top third |
Straight recommendation: if you own an oven, use the oven. Free, the most even, and the only method here that scales without occupying your hands. The Hot Air Gun at ₹531 earns its bench space for tops and bubbles, but as a jar warmer it suits two or three jars, not a run.
1
Low oven — the default for anything over five jarsStand the jars upright and well spaced on a tray, nothing touching. Put them into a cold oven and bring the oven up with them — sliding cold glass into a hot cavity is the rate of change that cracks jars. Lowest setting. Out with a dry cloth, onto wood or a folded towel, never steel or stone.
2
Hot air gun — fast, local, keep it movingHold the gun 15–20 cm away, spiral from base to rim and back, rotating the jar continuously. Never dwell on one spot, and never hold it on printed, painted or matte-coated glass for more than a pass — coatings expand differently from the glass beneath. Check the base with your palm before pouring; a gun that has warmed the wall usually leaves the base cold.
3
Hot water bath — free, but the drying is the jobStand jars in hot tap water deep enough to cover most of the wall for a few minutes, then dry completely inside and out and leave them upside down a few minutes more. Water is the whole risk: a jar that looks dry can hold condensation on the inside wall, and that film is sealed under the wax. It reads as a milky bloom or tiny bubbles — close enough to a wet spot that you will spend a week fixing the wrong fault. Never boiling water on a cold jar.
4
Warming plate — least useful, and CSI does not sell oneA hotplate warms the base while the rim stays at ambient, and the last wax to arrive lands on the coldest glass. Use one only to hold jars already warmed evenly by another method — which is what the top of a running Mini Electric Wax Melter at ₹2,360 ends up doing.
Safety — glass, heat and the three rules that matter
One: glass cracks on the rate of change, not the temperature. A jar will reach warm-to-the-touch over ten minutes quite happily and shatter reaching the same state in ten seconds. Every method above is safe slow and unsafe rushed.Two: handle warm glass dry. A damp cloth conducts heat to your hand and makes the jar slip. Dry cloth or gloves, one jar at a time, never set down on cold stone or steel.
Three: never heat a jar that already has wax in it beyond a quick surface pass. A brief heat-gun pass across a set top is normal. Heating a filled jar through is not — you remelt the column, redistribute the fragrance, undo the cure and put a large gradient across glass now insulated on the inside by wax. Thin, frosted and decorated glass tolerate it least. If a filled jar needs rescuing, a second pour is usually the answer, not more heat.
Pouring a production run into a jar you have not tested before? Buy a small pack first. Matte and frosted glass jars are ₹354 per pack of 5 and ₹708 per pack of 10; the 200 ml Salsa Glass Jar is ₹200.60 for 5 before it drops to ₹1,475 for 50. Establish your warming routine on five jars, then commit to the fifty.
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The fifty-jar problem
Warming one jar is easy. Warming fifty and pouring the last one before it goes cold again is the actual production question.
A domestic oven takes perhaps eight to twelve 150 g jars on a tray without them touching. A fifty-jar run does not fit, and the maker's instinct — warm everything you can, then pour steadily through the batch — is exactly wrong. Warm all fifty at 8:00 and the jar you pour at 9:40 has stood on a bench for ninety minutes. It is at room temperature again, and you have produced the very fault you were avoiding, in the second half of the batch only.
That pattern is worth recognising because it is so often misread. If your adhesion faults concentrate in the jars poured last, the wax did not degrade in the pitcher. Your jars went cold while they waited. The fix is sequencing, and it costs nothing.
1
Time your real pour rate firstNot the estimate — the real one, with refills and wick checks. Pour ten jars with a stopwatch running. A 600 ml Steel Pouring Pitcher at ₹708 will not cover more than about four 150 g jars before refilling — volume arithmetic, and the refill is why real rates are usually half of estimated ones.
2
Warm in waves sized to ten minutes of pouringIf you pour twelve jars in ten minutes, warm in waves of twelve, loading the next as you start pouring the current one so the oven is always working while you are. That keeps the oldest warmed jar ten minutes old, not ninety. Nobody needs a commercial oven for this. They need a smaller wave.
3
Group the jars and insulate what they stand onTwelve warm jars shoulder to shoulder hold heat far longer than twelve spread across a bench. Stand the block on a folded towel or wooden board, never granite or steel, and invert the shipping carton over the group between pours. The carton is free and the most effective thing in this section.
4
Pour first in, first outPour each wave in the order it left the oven and finish it before touching the next. It costs no extra time; reaching for whichever jar is nearest means the oldest is poured at a random moment.
5
Mark the last jar of every wave and check it at day 7A dot of tape on the base of each wave's final jar. At day 7, compare those five or six against the first jars of their waves. If the marked jars are clean, your wave is small enough. If they cloud, cut the wave and repeat.
Heavy glass such as the 200 ml Salsa Glass Jar at ₹1,475 for 50 warms slowly and holds warmth longer — friendlier here than thin votive glass, which warms in a minute and cools in three. And if your oven cannot hold ten minutes of pouring, slow the pour rather than skip the warming: ninety minutes with warm jars beats sixty with cold ones.
What not to buy. There is no jar-warming equipment in the CSI catalogue and we will not point you at a substitute. The Mini Electric Wax Melter at ₹2,360 holds wax at temperature all afternoon, genuinely useful on a long run, but it is not a jar warmer and buying it as one wastes ₹2,360. Your kitchen oven does this job better than anything you could buy for it.
The two-jar controlled test
Whether any of this makes a visible difference in your workshop, with your wax, at your ambient temperature is a question only your bench answers. Two jars, twenty minutes of work, spread over a week. Run it before you believe anyone about jar temperature, including this page.
1
Two identical jars, same packSame product, colour and pack, ideally adjacent in the box — two colours of the same matte jar is not a controlled test, because coatings differ. Wipe both inside and leave them side by side an hour so they start level.
2
One melt, one pitcher, one pourMelt enough for both in one vessel and pour both from it; two melts are two batches, differing in temperature and stir time. Weigh each fill on a weighing scale at ₹354 rather than eyeballing it.
3
Warm jar A only. Jar B stays at room temperatureWarm A by the method you intend to use in production and record how, for how long, and the outside-wall reading if taken. Change one variable. Alter the pour temperature or cooling spot too and the result attributes to nothing.
4
Pour both within a minute, identicallySame height, speed and angle, sixty seconds apart at most, pitcher temperature checked before each, both wicked identically with the same Eco Candle Wick size.
5
Cool them identically, then leave them aloneSame bench and surface, 20–30 cm apart, no lids, no fan, no vent overhead, no direct sun. Note the room temperature. Do not touch either jar for 48 hours — moving a candle while it sets is itself a variable.
6
Inspect at 48 hours, properlyTake both to a window in daylight. Hold each against white paper, then something dark; a fault invisible on white jumps out on black. Rotate each jar fully and photograph both from the same distance and angle — memory is poor at comparing pale patches a week apart.
7
Inspect again at day 7 — the reading that countsSoy keeps contracting for days. A jar clean at 48 hours can cloud by day 7, and a maker who signs off at 48 hours ships candles that fault in the customer's hand. Repeat, photograph, compare. The day-7 pair is your result.
8
Then run it againOne pair is an anecdote. Two pairs poured on different days is evidence. If both point the same way, you have a real answer. If they disagree, something else varies more than jar temperature does — and finding it is now the more valuable question.
The record sheet
Ten fields. Fill them at the bench, not from memory afterwards
| Field | Record | Why it matters |
|---|---|---|
| Date and time of pour | To the nearest ten minutes | Day 7 is a date; morning and evening pours differ |
| Wax and batch | Product, pack size, invoice date | Traces a change in behaviour to one purchase |
| Jar product and pack | Name, colour, finish, pack size | Coated, matte and frosted glass differ from clear |
| Warming method and time | Oven, gun, water or plate, plus minutes, timed | The variable under test; "a few minutes" is not repeatable |
| Jar surface reading | Outside wall, halfway up, if taken | Consistency beats accuracy |
| Ambient temperature | Room temperature at the pour | The variable this page cannot know |
| Pour temperature | Reading in the pitcher, not the target | Drives adhesion, finish and sinkholes |
| Fill weight | Grams per jar, weighed | Equal weight, not equal height |
| Cooling surface and spot | Wood, towel or stone; spacing; drafts | A stone bench under one jar voids the pair |
| Result at 48 hours and day 7 | Clean / faint / clear, plus photo, both times | Faults develop; the 48-hour reading alone can lie |
Score it the same way every time
Use three words and only three: clean, faint, clear. Resist a ten-point scale you will apply differently in March than in September — three categories applied consistently across twenty pairs tell you more. If you sell the candles, one line on a care sticker at ₹413 per 500 noting that natural soy may show cosmetic marks against glass costs ₹0.83 and saves a share of the messages you would answer one by one.What preheating does not fix
Preheating gets credited with more than it does, usually by makers who changed three things at once and thanked the interesting one. Here is what a warm jar does nothing for. (It is also no substitute for a clean one: wipe the inside with a dry cloth before warming.)
Frosting. Those white crystalline patches are natural soy crystallising in its own polymorph at the surface — a characteristic of the material, not a defect in your process. Jar temperature does not change soy's crystal habit, and an over-warmed jar makes frosting more visible, because slower cooling grows larger crystals. Warming harder to fix frost makes it worse and loses the adhesion gain.
A hidden void or sinkhole. A cavity inside the candle, or the dip around the wick, is a shrinkage cavity: the outside sets first and the core contracts as it follows. That is a pour-temperature and second-pour question, handled in does pouring temperature cause candle sinkholes. Warming the jar changes the boundary, not the core. The related finish question is how to get smooth tops on soy candles.
Anything to do with the wick. Tunnelling, mushrooming, soot, a drowning flame, a pool that never reaches the wall — none of it relates to how warm the glass was an hour before the candle set. Those are sizing questions; the wick guide by jar diameter is where to start.
A pillar wax poured into a jar. Soy Pillar Wax is formulated to contract hard and release cleanly from a mould. Release is the point. Pour it into glass and it does what it was designed to do — let go — and no jar temperature changes that. Move to CSI 464 at ₹260, Luxury Soy Chunks at ₹299 or Premium Coconut Soy CSI 468 at ₹325, all per 500 g.
The CSI principle
There is nothing in this catalogue you can buy that will do for glass adhesion what a warm jar does for nothing.
We sell wax, jars, wicks and tools, and it would suit us to call adhesion a materials problem with a purchasable answer. It is a heat problem with a free one. Buy the ₹531 hot air gun for tops and bubbles if you want it — it is a good tool — but not as an adhesion fix, because the oven you already own does that job better and charges nothing.
The jar is not a passive container. It is the coldest thing your wax will ever touch.
— CandleMakingSuppliesIndia
Why trust this guide
CANDLEMAKINGSUPPLIESINDIA supplies raw materials, not finished candles. The commercially useful version of this page would recommend a product. There is no product to recommend: the answer is an oven you already own, a folded towel, and a change to the order in which you pour. The only item on this page you could buy for the job is the Hot Air Gun at ₹531, and we have told you twice that it is the worst of the four methods for warming empty jars. We would rather you fixed the fault and reordered wax than bought a tool that does not solve it.
We have not given you a jar temperature, because CSI does not publish one. No container in the range carries a stated preheat figure, and inventing one would make this page more quotable and less true. What we have given you instead is a target you can feel with your hand, an explanation of why hotter is worse rather than better, and a controlled test that produces the number for your own workshop, your own glass and your own ambient temperature. Anyone who hands you a single universal figure without that caveat is describing their bench, not yours.
Every price on this page is taken from live CSI stock on 10 September 2026 and links to the product page, where current pricing, specification and availability always take precedence. For bulk pricing on jars or wax, GST invoicing, MSDS and IFRA documentation, or help matching a wick to a specific jar diameter, message us on WhatsApp at +91 7397976926.
Frequently asked questions
Does preheating candle jars really improve glass adhesion?
Yes. Wax bonds to glass by flowing into the surface while it is still liquid, and it needs a fraction of a second at the wall to do it. Cold glass is a heat sink that removes that window: the first film sets before it has wetted anything, and when the candle shrinks — as soy always does — that unbonded skin lifts and you see an air gap through the glass. A warm jar keeps the boundary film fluid long enough to wet the surface and lets it set in contact. It is the cheapest adhesion improvement available and it costs nothing per candle.
What temperature should I preheat candle jars to?
CSI publishes no jar-temperature figure, and we are not going to invent one. The usable target is a feel, not a number: warm to the touch, comfortable to hold flat against your palm indefinitely, distinctly warmer than the room. The purpose is to remove the thermal shock, not to keep the wax molten — a jar too hot to hold sets the wall so slowly that you trade an adhesion fault for frosting and a soft top. Establish your own figure with the two-jar test and a pen thermometer at ₹354, then record it and repeat it.
Can I use a hot air gun to warm candle jars?
Yes, for two or three jars. The Hot Air Gun at ₹531 is the fastest method at roughly 20–40 seconds a jar, but it is also the least even — it heats the spot you point at and typically leaves the base cold while the upper wall is hot. Keep it 15–20 cm away, keep it moving in a spiral, rotate the jar continuously, and never dwell on one place, especially on thin, frosted or decorated glass. For anything over five jars a low oven is better, free and unattended.
Will preheating jars stop wet spots completely?
It reduces them, often substantially, but it is one lever among several — cooling rate, pour temperature, jar finish and the wax itself all contribute, and natural soy in glass may always show some cosmetic marking. Preheating is the cheapest of those levers, which is why it is worth doing first. The complete prevention list is in how to prevent wet spots in container candles, and the underlying cause is explained in what causes wet spots in candle jars.
How do I preheat fifty jars without a commercial oven?
You do not warm fifty. You warm in waves sized to about ten minutes of pouring — typically eight to twelve jars — loading the next wave as you begin pouring the current one. Group the warmed jars in a block on a folded towel or wooden board rather than spreading them on stone or steel, invert the shipping carton over them between pours, and pour strictly first in, first out. Mark the last jar of each wave and check it at day 7: if it is clean, your wave is small enough.
Is it safe to heat a jar that already has wax in it?
A brief surface pass with a heat gun to smooth a top or close a sinkhole is normal and controlled. Heating a filled jar through is not. You remelt the whole column, redistribute the fragrance unevenly, undo the cure, and put a large thermal gradient across glass that is now insulated on the inside by wax. Thin, frosted and decorated glass tolerate this least. Glass cracks on the rate of temperature change rather than the temperature itself, so warm slowly, handle with a dry cloth, and never set hot glass onto cold stone or steel. If a filled jar needs rescuing, a second pour is usually the answer.
Warm the jar. Then test it.
The cheapest fix in container candle making is an oven you already own and ten minutes of sequencing.
Luxury Soy Wax CSI 464 from ₹260/500g, Luxury Soy Wax Chunks from ₹299/500g, Premium Coconut Soy CSI 468 from ₹325/500g, matte and frosted glass jars at ₹354 per pack of 5, 200 ml Salsa Jars at ₹1,475 for 50, and a Hot Air Gun at ₹531 if you want one for tops and bubbles. Message us for bulk pricing, GST invoicing and documentation.
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Editorial standards & sources
About this guide: Written by the CANDLEMAKINGSUPPLIESINDIA team. Product recommendations reflect the CSI range; the mechanism, the wave-sequencing routine, the two-jar protocol and the record sheet apply to any supplier's materials.Customer reviews: The six reviews at the top of this page are genuine, published Judge.me reviews left by CSI customers on their product pages. Names, star ratings, dates and products are as recorded by Judge.me, and wording is unedited. They are general reviews of the wax, jars and hot air gun named on each card — not reviews of the preheating method described here. "Verified buyer" appears only where Judge.me recorded a verified purchase; the Hot Air Gun review from Niharika S is published without that badge and is shown without one.
What this page does not claim: CSI does not publish a jar preheat temperature for any container in the range, and no numeric jar temperature is stated anywhere above. The guidance "warm to the touch, not hot" is a handling target, not a specification, and the two-jar test is provided so that makers establish their own figure for their own wax, glass and ambient conditions. No test results, customer counts, delivery times or certifications are claimed.
Prices verified 10 September 2026 (CSI live pricing): Hot Air Gun ₹531 (stock was low — one unit — on the pull date). Pen Thermometer for Candle Making ₹354. Candle Making Weighing Scale ₹354. Steel Pouring Pitcher, Large 600 ml, ₹708. Mini Electric Wax Melter, 1 litre, ₹2,360. Luxury Soy Wax CSI 464 (flakes) ₹260 / 500 g. Luxury Soy Wax Chunks ₹299 / 500 g. Premium Coconut Soy Wax CSI 468 ₹325 / 500 g. Soy Pillar Wax ₹300 / 500 g. Matte and frosted glass jars ₹354 / pack of 5 and ₹708 / pack of 10 (₹70.80 each). Clear Glass Jar with Golden Lid 150 g ₹944 / pack of 10 (₹94.40 each). Black Glass Jar with Black Lid 150 g ₹1,070 / pack of 10 (₹107.00 each). 200 ml Salsa Glass Jar with Golden Lid ₹200.60 / 5 pcs and ₹1,475 / 50 pcs (₹29.50 each). Eco Candle Wicks Thin (C1) ₹59 / 10 (₹5.90 each). Candle Care Stickers Roll ₹413 per 500 (₹0.83 each). Container collection count of 80 products and the store's 92 fragrance oils are as at the same pull. The 600 ml pitcher / four 150 g jars figure is volume arithmetic, not a manufacturer specification. Prices, stock and specification change — the linked product pages are always authoritative.