I'm Making 10 Kg of Scented Wax at Once — How Do I Ensure Fragrance Oil Is Distributed Uniformly Throughout the Entire Batch?

Get the 10 kg maths right first

CSI's convention, used across this series, is that load is a share of the finished weight. For 10,000 g of finished scented wax at 8%, that is 800 g of oil and 9,200 g of wax. The common mistake at this scale is to weigh a full 10 kg of wax and add 800 g of oil, which makes 10,800 g at 7.41%, and one extra batch's worth of candles you did not plan jars and wicks for. If you want to use a full 10 kg bag and hit a true 8%, add 869.57 g of oil. I'm Making 10 Kg of Scented Candles at 8% Fragrance Load — How Do I Calculate the Exact Wax and Fragrance Quantities Without Accidentally Making a 10.8 Kg Batch? works through both routes in full, and I'm Making a 1 Kg Soy Wax Batch at 8% Fragrance Load — Do I Add 80 g Fragrance Oil to 1 Kg Wax or Should the 8% be Calculated from the Total Finished Candle Weight? explains the convention.

Weighing 800 g of oil accurately matters as much as weighing the wax. Weigh it into a clean container on a scale whose capacity and readability suit the job; the capacity of our Candle Making Weighing Scale is not published in the data behind this page, so check the product page, and weigh in two portions if needed. Write the weights into the batch record before the oil goes anywhere near the wax.

Choosing the vessel

The vessel decides whether full-depth stirring is even possible. A batch that fills a vessel to the brim cannot be stirred properly without spilling, and a narrow, deep vessel puts the base far out of reach. The table compares the realistic options for 10 kg. Melter capacities are as listed on the product pages; whether a capacity refers to solid or melted wax, and how full a melter may safely be filled, is not in our data, so ask us before relying on either.

The honest reading: if you will run single 10 kg batches regularly, the 20 kg melter is the size that leaves room to stir. If you already have the 10 kg melter, two 5 kg batches, each stirred and sampled, will usually give you more uniform candles than one 10 kg batch filled to the brim. If you are melting in a pot you already own, the vessel is fine as long as your paddle reaches the base and there is no open flame near the warm, scented wax.

The stirring method for 10 kg

Everything in I Add Fragrance at the Correct Temperature but Only Stir for 20 Seconds — Could Inadequate Mixing be Causing Inconsistent Scent Throw? about slow, full-depth stirring applies here, with two additions at this scale. First, reach: the paddle or stick must reach the base of the vessel with your hand above the wax. Measure the depth of your vessel and check your stirrer against it. The length of our Bamboo Stirring Sticks is not published in our data, so check them against your vessel; for a deep melter you may need a longer paddle of your own. Second, pattern: at this volume, a single circular motion can set up a slow swirl that moves the whole batch round without mixing top and base. Break it up.

Temperature runs alongside the whole sequence. For Luxury Soy Wax Chunks, follow the wax maker's instructions for melting, adding the oil and pouring; there is no CSI temperature on record for this wax, so ask us on WhatsApp if they are not on the product page. The only CSI figure on record is CSI's CSI 464 guidance, 80–90°C — confirm on the product page. Read the thermometer mid-melt after stirring, never at the base or wall. A large melter can hold heat for a long time, which helps keep the batch in the window through the pour, but also means oil sits hot for longer, so do not let the batch idle on the heat after it is mixed. I Added Fragrance Oil to Soy Wax While It Was Very Hot and the Finished Candle Smells Weak — Could Excessive Temperature Have Affected the Fragrance? covers why.

Keeping it even through fifty candles

Fifty candles take a while to pour, and the batch does not stand still while you do. The walls cool, and any oil that is not fully dispersed has time to move. A few simple rules keep the fiftieth candle like the first. They are general practice, and the intervals are labelled working practice.

The check: #1, #25 and #50

Uniformity has to be proven, not assumed. Set aside candles #1, #25 and #50 — the first, middle and last poured — plus one retained sample. At a labelled 7-day checkpoint, compare their cold throw with your approved reference candle. At a labelled 14-day checkpoint, burn them blind and score them. If all three match the reference, the batch is uniform. If #50 differs, add re-stirs or shorten the pour. If #1 differs, lengthen the initial stir. My First Candles from a Production Batch Smell Weaker than the Last Ones — Could the Fragrance Oil be Settling or Mixing Unevenly? covers the diagnosis in more depth, and What Actually Happens if I Add Fragrance Oil to Soy Wax at the Wrong Temperature Even When the Candle Looks Visually Normal? covers the faults that do not show until later.

Material cost excludes labour, packaging, freight and GST. The last row is a reminder that at this volume, pack size can matter: Lemongrass and Lime is one of the 24 oils where the kilo is genuinely cheaper per gram. For most oils it is not, and a 1 kg pack buys stock security rather than a lower rate.

Equipment and materials, priced

Frequently asked questions