Can Fragrance Oil Burn Off When Added to Hot Candle Wax?
शेयर करना
Fragrance oils from ₹68.44 / 15g · ₹2,891 / kg 15g trial sizes to 1kg bulk Made & stocked in India · ships nationwide
CSI technical guides · fragrance behaviour
"Burning off" describes two completely different things. One happens in every pot you have ever poured and costs you a fraction of your top notes. The other is not what your melt is doing.
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✓ Stated add bands published per wax ✓ No invented loss figures ✓ SDS & IFRA documentation on WhatsApp
Candle Business Guides · Flash Point & Safety
Two different things get called burning off, and separating them answers the question properly. The lightest materials in a blend do evaporate, continuously, at every temperature — that part is real, selective and small. Ignition is a different process with different requirements, and it is not what a covered melt inside its stated band is doing.
80–90°C
the fragrance add band CSI's soy wax pages state — and 15 of the 18 measured flash points CSI publishes sit at 132°C or above, at least 42°C clear of the top of it · CSI page text and live pricing, September 2026
Quick answers — read this first
Does fragrance oil burn off in hot wax? Not in the sense of burning. Some of the most volatile materials evaporate, and they do so at every temperature — faster when the wax is hotter, when the pot is open and when you stir for longer. That is loss by evaporation, not by combustion.Is my wax "burning" the fragrance at 85°C? No. Ignition needs vapour at an ignitable concentration and an ignition source at that surface. A covered melt held inside its stated band has neither. What a flash point classifies is that ignition case, not your pour.
How much do I actually lose? No supplier publishes a figure and we are not going to invent one. What you can do is compare: the same oil, the same temperature, one pot covered and one open, cured and scored blind. The method is below.
So why is my candle weak? Almost certainly not the pour. On a 500-candle run a full 1% oil loss is 80 g, about ₹402.14 of Sandalwood. Cure, wick size, load and note structure move perceived strength far more — see the ten levers.
The short answer
Evaporation is real, selective and continuous. The lightest, most volatile materials leave first, which is why a hot, open, long-stirred pour tends to read as duller in the opening rather than weaker overall.
Ignition is a different process. It needs an ignitable vapour concentration and a source of ignition. That is what a flash point classifies, and it is why the figure belongs with handling rather than with your recipe — see what flash point means.
The fix is boring and free: work inside the wax page's stated band, keep the pot covered, stir for the stated time rather than longer, and pour. Three CSI oil pages tell you the same thing in their own words.
In this guide
The left column is the process you influence with a lid and a timer. The right column is a classification of the bottle. Almost every argument about fragrance "burning off" is a left-column observation being explained with a right-column number.
Base-heavy · states 203°C
Sandalwood Fragrance Oil · 100 g ₹502.68
States add 80–90°C · stated cure
Luxury Soy Wax Chunks · 1 kg ₹599
Need the figure for your records?
Ask for the SDS on WhatsApp
Straight answer
Can fragrance oil burn off when it is added to hot candle wax?
Not by burning — but some of it does evaporate, and that is a real effect worth managing. The two need separating. Evaporation requires nothing but a liquid surface and time: it happens in a cold bottle with the cap off and it happens faster in a 90°C pot, it is selective because the lightest materials leave first, and its visible consequence is a shift in the balance of a blend rather than a collapse in its strength. Ignition is a different process that needs vapour at an ignitable concentration and a source of ignition at that surface; it is what a flash point classifies, and it is not a description of what a covered melt is doing at the temperatures wax pages specify. Luxury Soy Wax Chunks state a fragrance add temperature of 80–90°C; CSI 468 states a pour of 58–60°C; and 15 of CSI's 18 published flash points sit at 132°C or above. Three CSI oil pages give you the sensible working instruction in their own words — Jasmine: "Add to wax cooled to recommended pour temp before adding fragrance". How much you lose in practice is not published by anyone and we will not estimate it; what you can do is run the covered-versus-open comparison below, which costs nothing extra and settles it for your oil. And before you blame the pour for a quiet candle, check the arithmetic: a full 1% oil loss across 500 × 200 g candles is 80 g, roughly ₹402.14 of Sandalwood, against a 14-day cure and a correctly sized wick, which are free and move perceived strength far more.
One line: light materials evaporate, nothing ignites at pouring temperatures inside a stated band, and the fix is a lid, a thermometer and the stir time the page tells you — not a bigger number on the bottle.
Controlling evaporation costs less than worrying about it. A Pen Thermometer at ₹354 keeps you inside the stated band, and base-heavy oils like Sandalwood from ₹93.22 for 15 g carry their character in the materials least likely to leave.
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Two processes, one phrase
Most disagreements about this are two people describing different physics with the same three words.
"Burning off" is doing double duty. When a maker says their fragrance burned off, they usually mean the candle smells less like the bottle than they expected — an observation about composition. When a supplier or a datasheet talks about flash point, the subject is ignition. Both are legitimate topics. Neither explains the other, and using the second to reason about the first is how the folklore got started.
Evaporation and ignition, side by side
What each process needs, what it produces, and what you can do about it
| Evaporation | Ignition | |
|---|---|---|
| What it needs | A liquid surface and time. Nothing else | Vapour at an ignitable concentration and an ignition source at that surface |
| Temperature dependence | Continuous — occurs at every temperature, faster as temperature rises | Threshold behaviour — below the flash point the vapour above the liquid is too lean to flash |
| Selectivity | Highly selective. The most volatile materials leave first, so the blend's balance changes | Not selective. It is a property of the mixture as a whole |
| What it does to a candle | Shifts the profile: usually a thinner opening, a base that is still intact | Nothing, in normal practice. It is not a mechanism operating in a covered melt inside its stated band |
| What the specification is | None is published — no page states an evaporation rate, and we will not estimate one | The flash point. 18 CSI pages state a measured value, from 85°C to 206°C |
| What you control | Temperature, exposed surface, stirring time, whether the pot has a lid | Handling, storage and transport of the bottle |
The row worth reading twice is selectivity. Evaporation does not remove "the fragrance". It removes the parts of the fragrance that were most willing to leave, and those are exactly the materials perfumers put at the top of a pyramid: citrus, ozonic, green and light spicy notes. A blend whose character sits in its base — woods, musks, resins, vanillin-type materials — is much less exposed to this, which is the physical reason behind advice you will have heard as "heavier oils survive better in soy".
The mistake: reasoning about your pour from the flash point. "My oil is 203°C, so nothing happens to it below 203°C" is wrong in both directions. It is wrong because evaporation of light materials is already happening at 80°C, and it is wrong because the flash point was never a statement about how much fragrance you keep. Conversely, "my oil is 85°C and my wax is 85°C, so I have destroyed it" is also wrong: what you have done is hold a volatile blend at the warm end of a working band, which costs you some of the opening and nothing structural. Work to the band, keep exposure short, and judge the candle after a cure. The separation is set out in full in what flash point means in candle fragrance oil.
What actually leaves the pot
A fragrance oil is a blend of many materials with very different volatilities. That is not a marketing metaphor — it is the whole reason a scent has an opening, a heart and a base, and CSI's pages publish those structures on 88 of 107 listings. Read a stated pyramid as a rough volatility ranking and you can predict which parts of a scent are most exposed to a hot, open, over-stirred pour.
Stated note structures read as a volatility ranking
Verbatim pyramids from CSI pages, and which tier is most exposed during a pour
| Oil | Stated top | Stated heart | Stated base | Most exposed |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Blue Ocean | "Sea salt, ozone - crisp, airy, immediately refreshing" | "Jasmine, lily of the valley" | "Driftwood, musk - warm, grounding" | High — the entire selling point is the opening |
| Roasted Coffee | "Fresh coffee beans - bold, roasted" | "Dark chocolate, rich espresso" | "Vanilla, caramel - smooth, sweet, grounding" | Moderate — the roast reads from the top, the body from the base |
| Dark Vanilla | "Rich vanilla, spice" | "Deep caramel, cream" | "Dark amber, warm musk - deep, grounding, long-lasting" | Low — character sits in the heart and base |
| Sandalwood | Stated as a single note: "Warm, creamy sandalwood" with a "Subtle earthy depth" | Low — no volatile opening to lose | ||
| Vetiver | Stated as "Earthy, woody, and smoky with hints of green and natural sweetness"; the page adds "Vetiver builds slowly" | Low — and the page tells you to wait for cure before judging | ||
Now the uncomfortable and important caveat, because this is where most writing on the subject starts inventing: a stated pyramid is not a volatility measurement. It is a description of how the scent is meant to be perceived over time on skin or in a room. It correlates with volatility because that is how perfumery works, but no CSI page publishes the materials, their proportions or their boiling points, and you should treat the ranking above as a useful heuristic rather than data. If you need real numbers for a specific oil, the SDS is the document to ask for, and you can request it on WhatsApp.
The flash point does not tell you which tier is exposed
Here is a clean counter-example from within the range. Eucalyptus Spearmint states "Flashpoint 199°C" — near the top of the published set — and its stated profile is "Crisp eucalyptus with a refreshing spearmint finish", which is about as top-note-led as a scent gets. Dark Vanilla states "Flashpoint ~191-193°C", slightly lower, and is almost entirely heart and base. A high flash point does not mean a scent has no volatile opening to lose. The flash point is a property of the mixture; the exposure you care about is a property of the materials carrying the character.How much? Weigh it, don't guess it
Every forum has a confident percentage. None of them has a source, and no CSI page states one. So rather than repeat a number, here is what a bench scale can and cannot tell you — because that distinction is the honest answer to "how much".
Take a real batch. Five 200 g candles at 8% is 1,000 g of finished candle: 920 g of wax and 80 g of oil. Suppose you lost a full 1% of the oil during the pour. That is 0.8 g. Now compare it with the losses you already plan for: this series allows 3–5% of the wax for spills and top-ups, which on 920 g is 27.6 g to 46 g. Your ordinary transfer loss is about 34 times larger than the entire hypothetical fragrance loss.
A 1,000 g batch · five 200 g candles at 8%
Why a mass balance cannot isolate evaporation — and what it can do instead
| Quantity | Grams | What a scale sees |
|---|---|---|
| Wax in the batch | 920 g | Weighable directly, to the resolution of your scale |
| Oil in the batch | 80 g | Weighable directly |
| 1% of the oil, hypothetically evaporated | 0.8 g | 0.08% of the batch — buried in the noise |
| Planning allowance for spills and top-ups at 3% | 27.6 g | 34 times the size of the figure you were trying to measure |
| Wax and oil left on the pot, jug and spoon | Whatever it is on the day | Indistinguishable, on a weighing, from evaporation |
Worked above: five 200 g candles = 1,000 g finished weight; at 8% that is 80 g of oil and 920 g of wax. 1% of 80 g = 0.8 g, which is 0.8 ÷ 1,000 = 0.08% of the batch. A 3% wax allowance on 920 g = 27.6 g; 27.6 ÷ 0.8 = 34.5, so about 34 times larger. A 5% allowance = 46 g. The 1% figure is used purely to give the arithmetic something to bite on — it is not a measurement and no page publishes one.
That is why weighing is the wrong instrument for this question, and it is also why nobody publishes a number. The quantity is smaller than the uncertainty of an ordinary workshop. What you can measure, reliably and for free, is the difference between two handling regimes on the same oil — which is the next section.
Do not chase 0.8 g and ignore 27.6 g. If losses genuinely worry you, the honest place to spend attention is the pot, the jug and the pour, not the thermometer. Warm the jug, scrape with a silicone spatula (its page states "Heat-resistant up to 250°C"), pour promptly, and top up sinkholes from the same batch rather than a fresh melt. Those habits recover grams you can actually weigh. Chasing evaporation recovers fractions of a gram you cannot.
The covered-pot comparison
This is the experiment that answers the question for your oil, your wax and your nose. It holds temperature constant — so it is not a test of add temperature — and varies only exposure: how much surface, for how long, with or without a lid. Exposure is the variable evaporation actually responds to, and it is the one you control for free.
1
One oil, one wax, one load, one wick, six jarsSix 120 g jars in Luxury Soy Wax Chunks at 8% — 110.4 g of wax and 9.6 g of oil each. Pick a top-note-led oil, because a base-heavy one will show you nothing: Eucalyptus Spearmint at ₹354 per 100 g or Blue Ocean at ₹495 is the right kind of subject.
2
Melt together, split into two pots, both at the same readingBring both to the same temperature inside the stated band — 85°C on your thermometer, written on the label, not "about 85". If the two pots differ by more than a degree you have introduced a second variable and the test is spoiled.
3
Pot A: lid on, stir the stated two minutes, pour immediatelyEco Soy CSI 400's page specifies "stir gently for 2 minutes, and pour directly", and that is good practice on any soy. Lid on between stirring and pouring. Three jars.
4
Pot B: lid off, stir ten minutes, then hold uncovered for another tenDeliberately unreasonable — that is the point of a positive control. Same temperature throughout, held with the heat source as low as it will go. Three jars. If twenty minutes of open exposure at 85°C produces no rankable difference against Pot A, then two minutes with a lid on was never your problem.
5
Cure both sets identically, then score blindLids on, same carton, same room, 14 days — the Chunks page states minimum 48 hours and ideally one to two weeks. Have someone else unwrap and re-label them so you do not know which is which. Score cold throw first, then burn one of each for three hours and score time to full melt pool and hot throw at 30 and 120 minutes.
6
Read the result as a direction, not a percentageYou will get one of three answers. No rankable difference: stop worrying, and note it in your records. A difference in the opening only: that is the selective loss this page describes, and a lid plus a two-minute stir is the whole fix. A difference in overall strength: look elsewhere — weak hot throw has a longer list of causes than the pour.
The CSI principle
You cannot burn fragrance out of wax at pouring temperatures. You can evaporate the best part of its opening by leaving the pot open and stirring for ten minutes.
The variable is exposure, not the number on the bottle. A lid, the stated band and the stated stir time cost nothing and control the only mechanism that is actually operating.
What the loss is actually worth
Put a rupee figure on it and the question loses most of its urgency. The table takes a 500-candle production run and prices a hypothetical 1% and 5% oil loss across three oils at their 1 kg rates. Both percentages are illustrative — they are there to size the problem, not to describe a measurement.
500 × 200 g candles at 8% · 8 kg of oil · CSI live pricing, September 2026
What a hypothetical 1% and 5% oil loss costs across a full run
| Oil | 1 kg price | Oil for the run (8 kg) | 1% loss = 80 g | 5% loss = 400 g |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sandalwood | ₹5,026.80 | ₹40,214.40 | ₹402.14 | ₹2,010.72 |
| Jasmine | ₹3,923 | ₹31,384 | ₹313.84 | ₹1,569.20 |
| Eucalyptus Spearmint | ₹3,068 | ₹24,544 | ₹245.44 | ₹1,227.20 |
Worked above: 500 × 200 g candles at 8% = 500 × 16 g = 8,000 g = 8 kg of oil. Run cost = 8 × the 1 kg price. 1% of 8 kg = 80 g; 5% = 400 g. Sandalwood 80 × ₹5.0268 = ₹402.14 and 400 × ₹5.0268 = ₹2,010.72. Jasmine 80 × ₹3.923 = ₹313.84. Eucalyptus Spearmint 80 × ₹3.068 = ₹245.44. The 1% and 5% figures are illustrative, not measured; no product page publishes an evaporation figure.
So even on the dearest of the three, a full one percent loss across five hundred candles is ₹402.14 — about 80 paise a candle. Set that against the things a bad pour genuinely costs you: a batch poured above a jar's stated 85°C hot-pour limit, a batch wicked wrong that tunnels in a customer's home, a batch judged on day two and rejected. Those are hundreds or thousands of rupees each. Evaporation during the pour is a rounding error dressed up as a crisis.
Wax does not burn fragrance. An open pot and a long stir quietly spend its opening, and that is a habit you can change this afternoon for nothing.
— CandleMakingSuppliesIndia
Planning a production run? Ask for the documentation in one message — the SDS figure for any oil whose page does not publish one, plus IFRA documentation — and get bulk pricing and GST invoicing at the same time. With Diwali on 8 November 2026, a new oil wants to clear its burn test by early October so the batch gets a full 14–21 day cure.
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Weaker, or different?
Two complaints that feel identical and have completely different causes. Telling them apart takes one sniff and one question.
The single most useful diagnostic on this whole topic is to ask what precisely changed. "It doesn't smell of anything" and "it doesn't smell like the bottle" are different reports, and only the second is consistent with evaporative loss during a pour. Work down this table before you change your process.
Diagnosing what you are actually smelling
The complaint, the likely cause, and the cheapest check
| What you notice | Consistent with evaporation? | More likely cause | Cheapest check |
|---|---|---|---|
| Opening is thin; the body of the scent is intact | Yes | Long open exposure at the top of the band | The covered-pot comparison above |
| Cold throw is fine; hot throw is quiet | No | Melt pool too small for the vessel — a wick question | Time to a full pool. Under 2–3 hours or over? See wick size and hot throw |
| Everything is quiet at day 2 and better at day 14 | No | The candle was judged before it cured | Burn one jar at day 14 — why a 14-day cure |
| Smells different after burning than before | Partly — the pool releases the tiers differently | Note structure meeting a warm pool | why fragrance smells different after burning |
| Oil beads on the surface or pools at the top | No — the opposite problem | Load above the wax's ceiling, or added too cool to dissolve | separation and sweating |
| Weak at a 10% load on a wax rated for 10% | No | Ceiling reached; other levers untouched | the ten levers, ranked |
Five of those six rows have nothing to do with the pour temperature. That ratio is roughly right in practice too: in the ordinary run of complaints about weak candles, cure and wick account for most of it, load and note structure for most of the rest, and the pour for a sliver. Which is a good reason to keep the pour boring and well documented rather than anxious.
Sensible handling, stated plainly
None of this is an argument for carelessness with hot wax. Melt over water or in a thermostatically controlled melter rather than on direct heat, keep the melt attended, keep open flames and lighters away from an open pot, work in a ventilated space, and keep the wax within the range your equipment states — the Mini Electric Wax Melter page gives "Gear I temperature Approximately 70-85°C" and notes that "The ideal melting range for most candle waxes is 80-90°C". That is ordinary good practice for working with any hot liquid, and it is separate from the question of whether your scent survived.Three oils and what their pages state
Two oils whose character sits where evaporation cannot easily reach it, and one bright oil included deliberately as the counter-example. Per-candle figures use the series convention: a 200 g candle at 8% is 184 g of wax plus 16 g of oil.
1
Woody · single note · states 203°C
Sandalwood Fragrance Oil
A single-note wood, which is the least exposed structure there is: the page states "Warm, creamy sandalwood - smooth, rich, and sophisticated" with a "Subtle earthy depth", so there is no volatile opening to lose. It states "Flashpoint 203°C", a load of up to 10% for soy with a 48–72 hour cure and up to 6% for paraffin, and 0% vanillin, so no discolouration in white or neutral wax. The page also claims its 203°C is the highest in the CSI range, which the store's own Vetiver page contradicts at 206°C — ignore the superlative, use the figure.
| Size | Price | Per 100g |
|---|---|---|
| 15 gm | ₹93.22 | ₹621.47 |
| 50 gm | ₹271.40 | ₹542.80 |
| 100 gm | ₹502.68 | ₹502.68 |
| 500 gm | ₹2,513.40 | ₹502.68 |
| 1 kg | ₹5,026.80 | ₹502.68 |
₹80.43 of oil per 200 g candle at 8%, at the 100 g price Buy Sandalwood
2
Gourmand · base-anchored · states ~191-193°C
Roasted Coffee Fragrance Oil
A useful middle case. Its stated top is "Fresh coffee beans - bold, roasted" — genuinely volatile material — but the stated base of "Vanilla, caramel - smooth, sweet, grounding" carries the body of the scent, so a hot open pour costs you the roast rather than the candle. It states "Flashpoint ~191-193°C" as a range, a load of 6–10% for soy with a 48–72 hour cure and 6–8% for paraffin, and vanillin present, with the page's own instruction to "test in white wax before full batch production". Three CSI customers have left 5★ reviews; Arminder Kaur writes that the "Coffee fragrance is quite strong and feels like yummy".
| Size | Price | Per 100g |
|---|---|---|
| 15 gm | ₹93.22 | ₹621.47 |
| 50 gm | ₹230 | ₹460 |
| 100 gm | ₹390 | ₹390 |
| 500 gm | ₹1,890 | ₹378 |
| 1 kg | ₹3,738 | ₹373.80 |
₹62.40 of oil per 200 g candle at 8%, at the 100 g price Buy Roasted Coffee
3
Fresh · top-note-led · states 199°C
Eucalyptus Spearmint Fragrance Oil
The counter-example, and the right subject for the covered-pot comparison. Its stated flash point of 199°C is near the top of the published set, yet its stated profile is almost entirely an opening: "Crisp eucalyptus with a refreshing spearmint finish", described as "the familiar cool of a spa or steam room". High flash point, highly exposed character — which is exactly why the two things must not be conflated. Load stated up to 10% for soy, up to 6% for paraffin, 0% vanillin. At ₹354 per 100 g it is also the cheapest measured-figure oil in the range, which makes it an inexpensive test subject.
| Size | Price | Per 100g |
|---|---|---|
| 15 gm | ₹68.44 | ₹456.27 |
| 50 gm | ₹212.40 | ₹424.80 |
| 100 gm | ₹354 | ₹354 |
| 500 gm | ₹1,652 | ₹330.40 |
| 1 kg | ₹3,068 | ₹306.80 |
₹56.64 of oil per 200 g candle at 8%, at the 100 g price Buy Eucalyptus Spearmint
Why trust this guide
CANDLEMAKINGSUPPLIESINDIA supplies raw materials and does not make the fragrance oils or sell finished candles. The commercially convenient version of this page would be a percentage — "you lose 15% of your fragrance above the flash point, so buy the heavy oils". We have no such figure, nobody publishes one, and the arithmetic suggests the quantity is smaller than an ordinary workshop's spillage. Saying so costs us a sales argument and gives you a better process.
Every temperature, note structure, load and cure window quoted here is reproduced from the CSI product page for that specific wax or oil, read from live listings in September 2026, and every price is the listed variant price on the same date. The 1% and 5% loss figures are explicitly labelled as illustrative arithmetic, not measurements. Note pyramids are treated as a heuristic for volatility, not as data, because no page publishes materials or their proportions. This guide makes no regulatory, legal or safety-standard claims, and it is not a substitute for the Safety Data Sheet for the oil you are using.
For the SDS figure on any oil whose page does not publish one, for IFRA documentation, for bulk pricing or for GST invoicing, message CSI on WhatsApp at +91 7397976926. We will send what exists for the specific product you ask about.
Frequently asked questions
Can fragrance oil burn off in hot wax?
Not by burning. Some of the most volatile materials evaporate, which happens at every temperature and faster when the wax is hot, the pot is open and the stir is long. Burning requires ignition, which needs an ignitable vapour concentration and an ignition source at that surface — not a description of a covered melt inside a wax page's stated band. The practical control is exposure: lid on, stated band, stated stir time, pour promptly.
How much fragrance oil is lost when added to hot wax?
No product page publishes a figure and we will not estimate one. What the arithmetic shows is that the quantity is small relative to ordinary workshop losses: on a five-candle, 1,000 g batch at 8% the oil is 80 g, so even a full 1% loss is 0.8 g — against a 3% wax allowance for spills of 27.6 g on the same batch, about 34 times larger. A bench weighing cannot separate the two. Compare two handling regimes instead of trying to weigh one.
Will adding fragrance above the flash point ruin my candle?
It will not destroy the oil, and it is not the reason a candle smells weak. Adding at the hot end of a band tends to cost you some of the opening — the lightest materials — while the heart and base survive. It can, separately, cause real problems that have nothing to do with fragrance: seven CSI jar pages state "safe for hot-pour up to 85°C", and pouring hotter than your wax page states invites wet spots and sinkholes. Work to the band.
Do heavier fragrance oils survive hot wax better?
As a general principle, materials that are less volatile are less exposed to evaporation, so a scent whose character sits in woods, musks and resins loses less of what makes it recognisable than a citrus or ozonic opening does. CSI's stated pyramids let you judge this per oil — Sandalwood is stated as a single warm creamy wood with no volatile top, while Blue Ocean opens on "Sea salt, ozone". But do not use the flash point as the proxy: Eucalyptus Spearmint states 199°C and is almost all opening.
Should I add fragrance oil at a lower temperature to protect it?
Stay inside the band your wax page states, and sit at the lower end of it for top-note-led scents. Do not go below the band: oil added to wax that is too cool does not dissolve properly, and the result is separation and later sweating — a far more damaging outcome than a slightly thinner opening. Luxury Soy Wax Chunks state 80–90°C; whether the flash point should move that figure is answered in does flash point set the add temperature.
Does covering the pot really make a difference?
It is the cheapest variable you have, and you can settle it yourself: six jars, same oil, same wax, same 85°C reading, three poured after a lidded two-minute stir and three after twenty minutes uncovered, cured 14 days and scored blind. A null result is a real result — it tells you the pour is not where your attention belongs. Where a difference shows up it usually appears in cold throw and in the opening, and a lid plus the stated stir time is the entire fix.
Control exposure, not folklore
A lid, a thermometer reading you wrote down, and the stir time the page states. That is the whole of it.
Sandalwood from ₹93.22 for 15 g, stating 203°C, 0% vanillin and a single warm creamy wood. Roasted Coffee from ₹93.22, stating a 6–10% soy load and vanillin present. Eucalyptus Spearmint from ₹68.44, stating 199°C and the brightest profile in this group. Luxury Soy Wax Chunks from ₹299 for 500 g, stating add 80–90°C and a cure of one to two weeks. Pen Thermometer ₹354. For the SDS figure, IFRA documentation, GST invoicing and bulk pricing, message us.
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Continue the read
- What does flash point mean in candle fragrance oil?
- Does flash point determine when fragrance should be added to wax?
- What happens if fragrance oil is added to wax too hot?
- Why does your candle fragrance smell different after burning?
- Best fragrance oils for strong cold throw
- Why your candle needs a 14-day cure
- How to make candles smell strong without exceeding the safe fragrance load
Editorial standards & sources
About this guide: Written by the CANDLEMAKINGSUPPLIESINDIA team. The distinction between evaporation and ignition is standard physical description, not a claim about any product. No evaporation rate, loss percentage or "burn-off temperature" is asserted anywhere, because no such figure is published for any oil in the range; the 1% and 5% figures used in the cost table are labelled illustrative. No regulatory, legal or safety-standard claim is made, and nothing here replaces the Safety Data Sheet for the oil you are using.Customer reviews: The six reviews at the top of this page are genuine, published Judge.me reviews left by CSI customers on their product pages. Names, star ratings, dates and products are as recorded by Judge.me; two longer reviews are shortened with an ellipsis and otherwise unedited.
Figures verified September 2026: Wax temperatures, verbatim — Luxury Soy Wax Chunks "Recommended fragrance add temp 80-90°C", pour stated as 75–80°C in the details block and 70–80°C in the how-to steps, cure minimum 48 hours ideally 1–2 weeks, load 8–13% with 10% recommended, 1 kg ₹599 (500 g ₹299); Premium Coconut Soy CSI 468 "Pour Temperature 58°C – 60°C"; Eco Soy CSI 400 "stir gently for 2 minutes, and pour directly". Equipment: Mini Electric Wax Melter page states "Gear I temperature Approximately 70-85°C (158-185°F)" and "The ideal melting range for most candle waxes is 80-90°C"; Silicone Spatula page states "Heat-resistant up to 250°C"; Pen Thermometer ₹354. Vessel limit: "Safe for hot-pour up to 85°C" appears on seven CSI jar pages. Flash points, verbatim: Sandalwood "Flashpoint 203°C", Vetiver "Flashpoint 206°C", Eucalyptus Spearmint "Flashpoint 199°C", Dark Vanilla and Roasted Coffee "Flashpoint ~191-193°C", Blue Ocean "Flashpoint 143°C (290°F)", Jasmine "Flashpoint 185°C" with "Add to wax cooled to recommended pour temp before adding fragrance". Across 107 CSI fragrance-oil pages, 18 state a measured flash point; of those, 15 are 132°C or above and 132 − 90 = 42°C. Note pyramids quoted verbatim from the Blue Ocean, Roasted Coffee, Dark Vanilla, Sandalwood, Vetiver and Eucalyptus Spearmint pages; 88 of 107 pages state a full top/heart/base pyramid. Batch arithmetic: five 200 g candles at 8% = 1,000 g finished, 80 g oil and 920 g wax; 1% of 80 g = 0.8 g = 0.08% of the batch; a 3% wax allowance on 920 g = 27.6 g and 27.6 ÷ 0.8 = 34.5; a 5% allowance = 46 g. A 120 g candle at 8% is 110.4 g wax + 9.6 g oil. Run arithmetic: 500 × 16 g = 8 kg of oil; 1 kg prices Sandalwood ₹5,026.80, Jasmine ₹3,923, Eucalyptus Spearmint ₹3,068, so run costs ₹40,214.40, ₹31,384 and ₹24,544, and 80 g losses ₹402.14, ₹313.84 and ₹245.44; 400 g losses ₹2,010.72, ₹1,569.20 and ₹1,227.20; ₹402.14 ÷ 500 candles ≈ 80 paise each. Per-candle oil cost at 8% on a 200 g candle = 16 g × the 100 g price per gram: Sandalwood ₹502.68 ÷ 100 × 16 = ₹80.43, Roasted Coffee ₹390 ÷ 100 × 16 = ₹62.40, Eucalyptus Spearmint ₹354 ÷ 100 × 16 = ₹56.64. Loads and cure windows are the product pages' own and are formulation guidance, not regulatory limits. Prices and availability change — the linked product pages are always authoritative.